Welcome to the Beige Empire: How London's café culture became a copy-paste nightmare
Writer Wills Mayani

Every new opening looks the same: fluted panels, terrazzo, oat milk on tap. We walked twelve cafés in Zone 2 and couldn't tell them apart. Here's what happened to personality.
Walk into any new café in Peckham, Dalston, or Brixton and you'll be greeted by the same scene: fluted wood panels, a terrazzo counter, pendant lights that look like they were ordered from the same Alibaba listing, and a menu that lists oat milk before regular milk.
This is the Beige Empire. And it's everywhere.
The formula
The playbook is now so well-established that you could build a café from a checklist:
- Fluted panels (oak or walnut, never pine)
- Terrazzo countertop (grey, not pink — we're serious here)
- At least one plant that's too big for the space
- A pastry case with exactly three croissants visible at all times
- A barista with a tattoo of something they read about in Kinfolk
The result is a space that photographs beautifully and feels like absolutely nothing. It's interior design as Instagram strategy, not as hospitality.
Note"I walked into a new place in Camberwell last week and genuinely thought I was in the café I'd just left in Hackney. Same tiles. Same font on the menu. Same guy behind the counter."
What happened to weird?
There was a time — not even that long ago — when London's café culture was genuinely eccentric. The Algerian Coffee Stores on Old Compton Street has been selling beans since 1887 and still looks like it. Monmouth Coffee in Borough Market has a queue policy that borders on hostile. Bar Italia stays open until 5am and doesn't care if you think the espresso is too strong.
These places have personality. They're not trying to be anything other than what they are. They don't have brand guidelines.
The economics of beige
The cynical explanation is simple: beige is safe. Beige gets funded. Beige photographs well for the landlord's brochure. When you're pitching to investors, "we're going to do something really weird" is a harder sell than "minimalist Scandi-Japanese café with a focus on specialty coffee."
And so the spaces that get built are the spaces that get backed, and the spaces that get backed are the ones that look like every other space that got backed before them.
The Beige Empire isn't going away. But somewhere in London, in a basement you haven't found yet, someone is serving incredible coffee from a counter made of plywood and duct tape. The espresso machine is secondhand. The Wi-Fi password is written on the wall in marker pen. There's no fluted panelling in sight.
That's the café we're looking for.
Wills Mayani writes for LocoWeekend. For more, subscribe.


